Research also shows that it might be useful for wound healing as it promotes fibroblast (nice type of cells in our skin that produce skin-firming collagen) proliferation. It is also a natural osmoprotectant, meaning that it attracts water away from the protein surface and thus protects them from denaturation and increases their thermodynamic stability. Read reviews, see the full ingredient list and find out if the notable ingredients are good or bad for your skin concern! It's also touted as a volatile (evaporates from the skin rather than absorbs into it) silicone alternative, especially to replace Cyclomethicone mixes. There’s a whopping 15% Vitamin C in this serum so it helps brighten the skin while visibly reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, dark spots, and discoloration, while defending against any environmental stressors. See null member reviews and photos. £53.00 SHOP NOW. Orange peel contains less of it than some other citruses (like bergamot or lime), but still, be careful with it especially if it is in a product for daytime use. C serums might cause a slight tingling on sensitive skin. Being both of them citruses, they contain very similar active compounds with very similar (potential) effects on the skin. is drying. It's an alternative, natural preservative that comes from radishes fermented with Leuconostoc kimchii, a lactic acid bacteria that has been used to make traditional Korean dish, kimchi. Skin care brands typically use vitamin C derivatives like these two ingredients instead of pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid) because it is very unstable. The problem with linalool is, that just like limonene it oxidises on air exposure and becomes allergenic. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. A super common fragrance ingredient found naturally in many plants including citrus peel oils, rosemary or lavender. All opinions are my own. A mineral powder used to improve skin feel, increase product slip, give the product some light-reflecting properties, enhance skin adhesion or serve as an anti-caking agent. lemon, orange, lime or lemongrass. Its main job in skincare products is to moisturise the skin. Collagen-boosted, it firms and deeply hydrates even as it feels deliciously lightweight making this your go to vitamin c eye cream that promises to help revive and illuminate the entire eye area over time. https://bootshealthandbeauty.com/which-serum-is-right-for-your-skin Thanks to this, Olivem 1000 doubles as an active ingredient with significant moisturizing, barrier-repairing and soothing properties. Pro-Vitamin B5 is a goodie that moisturises the skin, has anti-inflammatory, skin protecting and wound healing properties. It is very common in gel-type formulas that also contain an oil-phase as well as in cleansers as it also works with most cleansing agents (unlike a lot of other thickeners). And with any Vitamin C serum (or any skincare in general), it is always essential to wear a high SPF sunscreen during the day as the Vitamin C makes your skin much more sensitive to the sun. HA is famous for its crazy water holding capacity as it can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water. It is formulated with powerful vitamin C to help revive and illuminate the entire eye area over time. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). It’s a yellowish powder with a nice sweet smell. Best to avoid if your skin is sensitive. The problem, though, is that it's very unstable, turns brown and becomes ineffective in no time (after a few month) and the cosmetics industry is trying to come up with smart derivatives that are stable and have the magic properties of pure Vitamin C. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid or EAC for short is an "etherified derivative of ascorbic acid" that consists of vitamin C and an ethyl group bound to the third carbon position. A very common scenario is that  Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract is on the ingredient list for its mild, natural exfoliant properties. As well as Vitamin C… We do like the supporting mix of ingredients that work to make the vitamin C more effective, including vitamin E (tocopherol), sunflower oil, glycerin, and hydrating, olive-derived emollients. As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. Though its long name does not reveal it, this polymer molecule (big molecule from repeated subunits or monomers) is a relative to the super common, water-loving thickener, Carbomer. It’s part of 200 natural oils including lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot, jasmine, geranium and it can be found in 90-95% of prestige perfumes on the market. This means that our molecule is part water- and part oil-loving, so it not only works as a thickener but also as an emulsion stabilizer. And although this serum doesn’t smell like bananas, it does smell like citrusy Vitamin C which is never a bad thing at all. If this is the case, it is usually combined with other AHA containing fruit extracts such as bilberry, sugar cane, orange, and sugar maple in a super popular ingredient mix trade named ACB Fruit Mix. What it is: A powerful age-defying serum—with 15 percent vitamin C, five percent PHAs, and hyaluronic acid—that instantly brightens, visibly firms, plumps skin with hydration, and reduces the appearance of dark spots, pores, and wrinkles.Skin Type: Normal, Dry, Combination, and OilySkincare Concerns: Dullness, Uneven T Normal (well kind of - it's purified and deionized) water. In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. These have the potential to give lemon extract antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-dandruff, venotonic and moisturizing properties, but the essential oil also brings some questionable compounds such as fragrance allergen limonene or phototoxic compound bergaptene. Just like orange fruit, lemon fruit also contains citric acid so it is commonly used as a natural, mild exfoliating agent. Its special thing is being an osmolyte, a molecule that helps to control cell-water balance. It’s the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF, hyaluronic acid (HA). Other than that, citrus peel also contains the problematic compound called furanocoumarin that makes them mildly phototoxic. A very stable and promising form of the skincare superstar, Vitamin C. If you do not know why Vitamin C is such a big deal in skin care, you can catch up here. It combines three Ole Glow® icons—vitamin C, exfoliating acids, and banana powder-inspired pigments—to help improve skin’s elasticity, boost radiance, and defend skin against pollution. Banana Bright™ Vitamin C Serum Item# 41609 https://www.olehenriksen.com/shop-by-type/serums-and-treatments/banana-bright-vitamin-c-serum/41609.html A powerful age-defying serum—with Titanium dioxide as a colorant. A common helper ingredient that stabilizes emulsions and helps to thicken up products. Sometimes its referred to as "waterlock" and can absorb 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. It's a natural and Ecocert approved duo. Overall, a real multi-tasker with nice sensorial properties. Read more about licorice and why it's a skincare superstar here. Other than having a good safety profile and being quite gentle to the skin it has some other advantages too. Images: Instagram user trendmood1 It's ideal to solubilize sunscreen agents and fragrances. What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate and cheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. It is a multi-tasker used to improve skin feel, increase product slip, give the product light-reflecting properties, enhance skin adhesion or serve as an anti-caking agent. It's similar to the more often used sodium hydroxide and pretty much the same of what we wrote there applies here too. Works as an excellent surface hydrator in skincare. Its main component (83-97%) is limonene, the super common fragrant ingredient. It’s a yellowish powder with a nice sweet smell. Because vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, it works to neutralise the free radicals caused by environmental damage which ulitmately cause the … A clear, odorless, very light emollient ester that helps to achieve light textures. Its typical use level is 1-5% and has wide compatibility with other actives and oils. Pure Vitamin E. Great antioxidant that gives significant photoprotection against UVB rays. But, citrus fruits are chemically complex mixtures with a bunch of other active components such as vitamin C, flavonoids, phenolics, carbohydrates and essential oil (this latter one coming from the rind of the fruit, but still present in some amount in the fruit extract). Flavonoids (hesperidin, naringin, luteolin, and ferulic acid) are also nice active compounds with possible antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and vasoprotective effects. It’s used mainly for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, but according to manufacturer info, it’s also sebum regulating so it's a perfect ingredient for problem skin products. A sugar beet derived amino acid derivative with nice skin protection and moisturization properties. The salt form of one of the main anti-inflammatory ingredients in the licorice plant, monoammonium glycyrrhizinate. Works in synergy with Vitamin C. A real oldie but a goodie. We don't have description for this ingredient yet. If you want vitamin C in your skincare, that is smart, but do not rely on orange fruit extract for it. It’s often used together with ethylhexylglycerin as it nicely improves the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol. We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into. It can be found in nature - in green tea - but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic. It autoxidizes on air exposure and counts as a common skin sensitizer. If that's the case, it is usually combined with other AHA containing fruits such as bilberry, sugar cane, lemon, and sugar maple in a super popular ingredient mix trade named ACB Fruit Mix. What it does: This next-gen vitamin C serum combines three Ole Glow® icons— Vitamin C, exfoliating acids and banana powder-inspired pigments— to instantly brighten and help defend skin against pollution, while delivering a sensorial experience you’ll love. YEOUTH Vitamin C & E serum was chosen for having significantly more 4 and 5-star ratings than any other vitamin C serum between $100-$150. water-hating. What it is: A powerful age-defying serum-with 15 percent vitamin C, five percent PHAs, and hyaluronic acid-that instantly brightens, visibly firms, plumps skin with hydration, and reduces the appearance of dark spots, pores, and wrinkles. Ole Henriksen Banana Bright Vitamin C Serum. If life gives the cosmetic industry lemon, it makes lemon fruit extract. Nonetheless, the scent is only trivial in a skincare product so let’s move on. It’s a real oldie: expressed directly from the seeds, the oil is used not for hundreds but thousands of years. Its main thing in cosmetic products is to neutralize the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. As you might guess from the “pro” part, it’s a precursor to vitamin B5 (whose fancy name is pantothenic acid). Betain's special thing is being an osmolyte, a molecule that helps to control cell-water balance. I started to notice more even skin in as little as 7 days! … The downside of it is that it oxidises on air exposure and might become allergenic. A big polymer (a molecule from repeated subunits) with crazy water binding abilities. Its main thing in cosmetic products is to neutralize the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. It's the salt form of famous humectant and natural moisturizing factor, hyaluronic acid. https://incidecoder.com/products/ole-henriksen-banana-bright-vitamin-c-serum A super versatile and common mineral powder that comes in different particle sizes. Skin Type: Normal, Dry, Combination, and Oily Skincare Concerns: Dullness, Uneven Texture, and Loss of Firmness and Elasticity I find they are absolutely essential for my skin for helping to fade any dark spots and acne scars. There are so many great things about this Banana Bright Vitamin C Serum. Regarding conversion, we can cite only a manufacturers claim saying that EAC is metabolized in the skin into pure ascorbic acid (and the ascorbic acid content of EAC is very high - 86,4% - compared to the usual 50-60% Vitamin C content of other derivatives). It's a very alkaline stuff that helps to set the pH of the cosmetic formula to be just right. Some of them (namely hesperidin and luteolin) might even have skin brightening activity by inhibiting tyrosinase, the famous enzyme needed for melanin production. The essential oil coming from the sweet orange. As an example, it mentions that Ci 19140 may cause itching and hives in some people but the colorant is always labeled so that you can avoid it if you are sensitive. Other than helping oil and water to blend, the main thing of Olivem 1000 is generating liquid crystal structures that are similar to the lipid structures of the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin). It’s not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide. An alkaline (high pH, aka basic) material that is used to set the pH of the cosmetic formula to the right value. A study shows that it can reduce the irritation caused by less-nice other ingredients (e.g. Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate is an antioxidant molecule used in small amounts (less than 0.8%) to help products stay nice longer. We have more info on Olivem 1000 at Cetearyl Olivate >>. Pure Vitamin C. A skincare superstar that is clinically proven to boost collagen production (in 5-20% concentration), fade hyperpigmentation and boost UV protection under sunscreen. There are so many great things about this Banana Bright Vitamin C Serum. It does smell nice but the problem is that it oxidizes on air exposure and the resulting stuff is not good for the skin. Serum 30ml skin hydration and general skin health the problematic compound called furanocoumarin makes! Lots of other active compounds with a wide variety of possible effects, to have Bright, radiant skin has... Naturally in many plant oils and sunflower oil - it 's also loaded with fatty acids of oil... 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